Attending A Korean Catholic Mass

Saenamteo – Catholic Holy Place Of The Martyrs

   remember the first time I laid eyes on Saenamteo, I was coming back from a performance on the Han River and while looking out the window of the bus I spotted a  lit traditional Korean building that I assumed was a temple.  I was shocked to discover that this was a Catholic Church.  I had been meaning to try and attend mass there ever since stopping by to light prayer candles for my half-sister Kathleen who had just started chemotherapy at the time. 

  As the outside temperature had dropped below 90, I decided it would be a great opportunity to attend the 6pm youth service, light a couple more prayer candles and get some photos of the building during the golden hour.

    I ended up arriving about 10 minutes late, due to difficulties with the Seoul Bike website, and not taking the most direct route to the church, I ended up standing outside the vestibule with a young teenager who kept looking at me to give them a cue on when would be an appropriate time to enter so we would not be interrupting the service.  I found this amusing as the service was being conducted in Korean, which meant I had no clue!  I just had to take a stab in the dark and pick a moment that sounded like a transitional moment, once it did I just kind of nodded at the youth, and quietly snuck in.  Sweating with my camera bag and bike helmet.  I was partially successful, as nobody turned around to glare at me, though I picked the pew right in front of a Korean nun.  Oooops.. 

  It was interesting observing a Korean service, I do not know if it was because this was a youth service, but it seems to be more rushed than what I am used to.  There was no homily, just your 2 readings (from the Old and New Testament), and the Gospel.  The offering procession was definitely different, we all went up to the alter to drop our offering in the donation box.  It was a good thing I had won on me due to the fact that I originally thought this was the line to communion.  Nope!  Time to pull out the wallet.

  The service was nice and I am glad I attended!  I would like to go back again and attend the normal mass at 10am to compare it with the specialized service. 

If you are interested in traditional Korean architecture I would highly recommend a visit to Saenamteo.  The history of the site is also quite interesting.  Located on the Han river, it was originally outside the Seoul City walls and during the Joseon Dynasty it was used to both train soldiers as well as a jail for the confinement and punishment of Political prisoners.  It is famous to Korean Catholics as the place where Catholics were taken and martyred during periods of Catholic persecutions.

The first Korean Catholic Priest St. Andrew Kim Taegon was killed and buried here in September of 1846.  This gained it the official status as a martyr’s shrine in 1950, and the current church building you see today was completed in 1987. 

You may also want to take the time to purchase and light a prayer candle.  Small candles are 1,000w.  Larger 2,000w.  On our previous visit it appeared they let the candles burn until they are completely burned out.  Which I though quite nice.

  Sunday Mass Schedule

            6am
            9am (Kids)
            1030am
            6pm (Youth)

How to get there:

Line #1 to Yongsan Station and use Exit 1.
After coming out of the station, walk to the right for about 63m.
Turn right at the first corner (toward Dragon Hill Spa & Sauna) and keep walking until the end of the street. Turn left and walk for about 650m.
Turn right at the corner where Bingchang Rainwater Pumping station (빙창빗물펌프장) is located. 
Walk for another 188m and after passing the train tracks, you will see the building on the left side of the street.

Use Green Bun 2016, or Shuttle 0017

GPS Coordinates:
37°31’28.728″ N 126°57’25.566″ E

Mappable address and phone #:
80-8, Ichon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
서울특별시 용산구 이촌로 80-8 (이촌동
070-8672-0327

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